At the risk of being labeled weird I'm going to throw it out there:
Everything seems the same, same work, same problems, same people, same habits, the same social, consumerist and financial prison, day after day, week after week, month after month, year after year… it drains our light… it's a déjà vu all over again… and surfing seems to be the only thing that keeps me sane, that balances my mind. And life goes one, goals are achieved and as we dream of the perfect wave, the perfect job, the perfect house, the perfect soul mate. When we get there, we dream of something else....
One day I decided to paddle alone between two surf spots, and half way across I found myself too tired to continue. I stopped paddling and just sat there… I've never felt so insignificant in my whole life. But sometimes when you're most alone, you're not alone at all... and sometimes you need your space, your time, and just like in life, surfing is basically a pretty selfish activity, not because we are selfish but because riding waves feels… really good… comfortable, like you’re in peace, like you’re at home… That’s about it.
Where you are, is part of who you are...
Inspired from "The Drifter"
Everything seems the same, same work, same problems, same people, same habits, the same social, consumerist and financial prison, day after day, week after week, month after month, year after year… it drains our light… it's a déjà vu all over again… and surfing seems to be the only thing that keeps me sane, that balances my mind. And life goes one, goals are achieved and as we dream of the perfect wave, the perfect job, the perfect house, the perfect soul mate. When we get there, we dream of something else....
One day I decided to paddle alone between two surf spots, and half way across I found myself too tired to continue. I stopped paddling and just sat there… I've never felt so insignificant in my whole life. But sometimes when you're most alone, you're not alone at all... and sometimes you need your space, your time, and just like in life, surfing is basically a pretty selfish activity, not because we are selfish but because riding waves feels… really good… comfortable, like you’re in peace, like you’re at home… That’s about it.
Where you are, is part of who you are...
Inspired from "The Drifter"
